Doves and pigeons are very peaceful and those kept
as pets will even seek out affection from their human family!
Domesticated doves and pigeons like
human contact. They are quiet and peaceful, and make wonderful pets.
They have a subtle appeal due to their special characteristics.
Most have a pleasant voice, generally a 'cooing' sound (most have
about 4 or 5 types of calls), they take off with a whirring sound,
and they do head nodding. They have also been noted for their flying
behaviors, arial acrobatics and a homing instinct, which can be
quite entertaining as well as useful.
Throughout history these birds have been used to carry
messages. The homing instinct is demonstrated today in the popular
use of white pigeons for wedding releases, and it has influenced
the popular sport of Pigeon Racing.
Description:
Though they are not the most brightly colored birds, many doves
and pigeons are very attractive. There is a variety of colors and color
patterns, ranging from whites to blue grays and any shade in between, and
a variety of uniquely feathered types.
Doves and pigeons generally fall into one of two body types,
those with a long slender body and those that are short and plump. The larger
birds are especially characterized by deep-chested bodies and are fairly
muscular. They all have relatively small heads and short, usually scaled
legs. Their beaks are relatively small, short, and narrow with a tip that
is slightly bent down. Their nostrils are wide open and the cere is featherless.
They come in a vast array of sizes, from those that are about the size of
a sparrow to those that are the size of a large chicken.
When they preen themselves, many have 'powder feathers' rather
than an oil gland found in many other birds. They use their beak to spread
the powder over their feathers. They molt once a year replacing just a few
feathers at a time, not all at once. During this time the molt starts with
the wing feathers first, the body molts throughout the period, and the tail
feathers molt last.
Doves and pigeons will live for a relatively long period of
time, generally about 10 to 12 years with some living quite a bit longer.
A Turtle Dove was recorded to have lived for 34 years.
Distribution:
Doves and pigeons are found throughout the world except in
the polar regions. A large portion of them are established in the Oriental
and Australasian regions. It is not known when they actually first became
kept in captivity, but they have been bred and hybridized for various
purposes for thousands of years. Specialized traits such as the homing
instinct, arial acrobatics, and unique feather structures have been developed
(or diminished) through selective breeding over many years.
It is not known what the total number of doves and pigeons
is, though there are over 305 described living species. In the pigeon
fancy alone there have been over 200 different breeds developed.
There is no scientific separation between doves and pigeons
and they are often recognized as one or the other by the common names
given to them over the years. In general the term 'pigeon' is usually
applied to the larger species and 'dove' to the smaller species.
Dr.
Matthew M. Vriends, a world reknown expert in tropical orthinology
and aviculture...gives us some very insightful information in his
book shown above...and this one!
Dr. Vriends
tells us that there are over 200 domesticated pigeons, and that
there are as many as 1250 varieties of all these breeds. He says
that all the doves and pigeons, through selective breeding over
about 50 centuries ....have come from a single species of wild pigeon,
the Rock Dove, Columba livia.
Paintings and heiroglyphics have many references to
doves and pigeons from today back to as early as about 2600 BC.
Aristotle writes about pigeon sports around 350 BC. These birds
have been used for thousands of years for food, sport, and as message
carriers.
Pigeon Racing is a worldwide sport developed due to
the homing instinct as well as acrobatic flying abilities. These
birds were selectively bred to intensify these as well as other
traits and there were many local strains. The first exhibits were
held toward the end of the 19th century.
Animal-World
Recommends!
Care and feeding: Personal
Hygiene: The personal hygiene of doves and pigeons
includes a bath followed by sunning and preening themselves. Some like
to bathe while others prefer a shower, and then there are some who like
a dust bath. A shower can be accomplished with either a hand held sprayer
or a hose with a fine spray head and lukewarm water.
Wing clipping is not necessary and is not recommended for
doves and pigeons. Unlike the parrot families, these birds cannot climb
to safety and depend on flight. Nutrition:
In the wild doves and pigeons feed on seeds, berries,
fruits, green leaves and shoots, spiders and other insects. The birds
we are describing here are the seed eaters in the subfamily Columbinae.
The fruit eaters are in the subfamily Treroninae,
but are not often seen in captivity probably because feeding them is much
more difficult. The seed eaters fall into three categories; those that
feed only in trees and shrubs, those that are ground feeders, and those
that feed in both places.
Fresh water must be provided every
day. Doves and pigeons drink water by sucking it up and swallowing it
rather than throwing their heads back like other birds do. One of the
best ways to provide water, and to keep the birds from soiling it, is
to use a so-called 'automatic' waterer, an upside down container that
feeds into a tray type base.
Foods available for doves and pigeons include seed only diets,
formulated diets that are either pelleted or extruded, and commercial
mixes generally consisting of seed, cereal, and legumes. The commercial
mixes and the seed only diets require supplements for complete nutrition.
Though formulated diets offer the same nutrients as commercial mixes as
well as the necessary vitamins and minerals, they have been found to cause
loose stools. This is probably because of the addition of molasses, but
because of this problem they are not widely used today.
A dove and pigeon diet consisting of a basic
commercial mix supplemented with greens rich in minerals is generally
regarded as suitable. Greens can include such things as lettuce, endive,
chickweed, clover, watercress, and spinach. Some fruits are berries, apple,
and pear. For smaller doves and pigeons you can use a budgie or canary
mix. The smaller birds will also enjoy millet spray
Because they eat seeds whole doves and pigeons need grit
and gravel. The little stones and the grit help grind up
harder seed in the gizzard. Vitamins can be added to the water or sprinkled
on food in a dry form about once a week. Offer calcium in the form of
crushed oyster shell, grit, and even cuttlebone for the small birds. Some
folks like to occasionally offer game bird crumbles, water soaked dog
biscuits, and water or milk soaked bread as well.
Housing:
In all cases the size of the dove or pigeon determines the
size of its home, they must be able to flap their wings without hitting
the sides. Small birds such as the Diamond dove can be housed in a cage.
The medium and larger sized birds will do much better in an aviary. Birds
that are allowed free flight will need a dovecote. Unlike the larger birds,
many of the small doves have very poor homing instincts and will not do
well if released outside. They are not good candidates for free flight
housing. Cage:
Generally a rectangular cage is better than a square one and the bar spacing
must be small enough that the bird cannot get its head through. Because
many of these birds spend a good deal of time on the ground, a wire bottom
cage should have part of it covered with paper or even grassy sod. They
also prefer a partially enclosed or box-type cage for a sense of security.
Keep the cage in a bright draft-free area but not in direct sun. Normal
room temperatures are fine with humidity at 50-70%.
Some people wish to cover the cage at night. This is not
necessary unless the cage will be in an area where the lights will be
turned on and off at night. A cover in this case can help keep the bird
from getting frightened. Aviary:
An outdoor or breeding aviary needs to have a protected shelter that can
be heated and cooled where necessary. Orienting the aviary to the south
or southwest helps as these birds need good daylight and will avoid dark
areas.
The shelter should be taller than the flight area as many
of these birds will seek out the highest place to roost for the night.
A good shelter size is about 6' (2 m) square and 8' (2.5 m) high. Provide
a flat shelf mounted as high as possible for roosting and for nest building,
as well as some regular perches or natural branches. Provide some nest
boxes for those birds that prefer an enclosed nest. A platform with a
rim, mounted about 3' above the ground, is a good place for food and water.
The flight area is a good place to provide a shallow pool
for bathing and will need perches. You can provide nesting boxes in the
flight if you locate them in areas where there are trees and bushes close
by so the birds get a sense of security. Leave plenty of room for flying.
Flight areas for small birds can be about 6' (2 m) long, 3' (1 m) wide,
and 6' (2 m) high. For medium size birds it can be about 9' (3 m) long,
6' (2 m) wide, and 6' (2 m) high. For the large birds it can be 15' (5
m) long, 6' (2 m) wide, and 6' (2 m) high. Dovecote:
Free flight birds will need a dovecote. For many years doves and pigeons
have been allowed free flight. 'Dovecotes' or
'pigeon lofts' were included as an integral part of many buildings throughout
Europe. Originally these were built for utility purposes and later became
more ornamental. There are many examples of these still today. This is
a natural way to keep these birds as many have a homing instinct and will
return to the dovecote each evening. If you wish to provide your birds
with free flight, probably the most important thing to consider is safety.
Free flight birds can be at risk from a variety of predators. Birds that
are not use to free flying are especially at risk. Again we must stress that many of the small doves, like the domestic Ringneck Dove, have very poor homing instincts. Putting them in a free flight situation could mean the loss of your pet. The birds would likely be lost, possibly perishing of starvation, predation, or exposure.
Free flyers must first be accustomed to their home before
allowing them to fly. If they are new to the dovecot, you can put a mesh
cover around it until they become familiar with their accommodations.
Once they know their home and where their food is they will return in
the evening. It is recommended that you feed them sparingly in the morning,
providing the bulk of their feed in the evening to encourage them to return.
The larger birds are ideal for free flight, especially the
acrobatic flyers. They enjoy it and it is good for their health.
For a small number of birds a wallcote is probably
the most practical. Built against the side of the house, preferably facing
south or southwest, a wallcote is a waterproof shelter consisting of compartments
and a porch or landing board. The compartment size is dependent on the
the type of bird. For a medium sized pair of birds a compartment can be
about 26" (67 cm) wide, 18" - 20" (46 - 51 cm) deep, and
16" (41 cm) high with an entrance that is about 5" - 6"
(13 - 15 cm). The landing board can be about 8" (20 cm) wide and
can also serve as a place to put heavy crocks for food and water. You
can add more compartments as the number of birds increases.
Another type of dovecote is the polecote.
This is a shelter and landing platform mounted on a free standing pole.
This type of cote is often more decorative than practical however. An
aviary that is opened up and allows for free flight is sometimes referred
to as a garden cote.
Maintenance:
The basic cage care includes daily cleaning
of the water and food dishes and bathing bowls. Weekly you should wash
all the perches and platforms. Periodically disinfect the entire cage
and accessories with a mild bleach solution. A total hosing down and disinfecting
of an aviary should be done yearly, replacing anything that needs to be
freshened such as old dishes, nests, and perches.
Social Behaviors:
In the wild all doves and pigeons are known to flock, some
do it only seasonally while others flock year round. Most species will
live together peaceable if they are given plenty of room. In too small
an area they can be very aggressive as well as during breeding season.
All doves and pigeons can be somewhat territorial, and there are some
species that are extremely so and very aggressive. Be sure to research
the behaviors of the birds you want before putting them together with
others.
Be very careful about adding a new bird to a cage with existing
birds. Most doves and pigeons are territorial by nature. They may be protective
of their space and will not appreciate a new roommate, possibly even killing
the newcomer.
Many species can be house with other birds in an aviary,
such as finches and parakeets, but aggressive species should be housed
separately. Doves and pigeons do not mix well with cats, nor do they do
well with dogs.
Handling/Training:
Young birds that are raised in an aviary can become very
affectionate once they get used to their home and their family. This is
the ideal pet as it will become quite tame and devoted while wild doves
and pigeons generally remain cautious and on their guard. The wild birds
will be shy and reserved and will seldom become overly affectionate.
When you first bring your bird home, give it about a week
or so with very little disturbance and don't let it out of its cage. There
is much for it to become familiar with just being in its cage. Give it
a chance to know you and get comfortable.
After it is comfortable with you and its accommodations,
then you can let it out to start exploring the rest of the home. Doves
and pigeons enjoy time out of the cage daily. A pet dove can become very
people oriented.
Activities:
Most doves and pigeons are seed eaters and thus ground dwellers.
They like to walk around and will roost higher up. Some are free flyers
that like to travel around. All these birds will need flight space. If
you keep your bird in a cage they will need time out everyday to fly or
walk about.
When resting, doves an pigeons do not tuck their head under
a wing like many birds do, rather they hunch down pulling their head between
the shoulders.
Breeding/Reproduction:
Doves and pigeons have a very strong reproductive drive and
many will breed indoors. In general the tropic or subtropic species are
the easiest to breed. All the birds in this family are monogamous, meaning
they mate for life. However they will generally take another mate if something
happens to permanently remove the chosen mate. Sometimes a male will kill
his mate. Sexing:
To breed you will need a sound compatible pair. Many doves and pigeons
are not easily sexed though there are a few species that are dimorphic,
having distinctive markings differentiating the male from the female.
If the sex is not visually obvious, it can be be determined by either
a surgical probe, endoscopy, which can be done by many veterinarians or
by a DNA testing, usually a blood sample or a few plucked feathers sent
to be diagnosed in a lab.
Most breeders will keep young birds in a pen together until
after the first molt and let them pick their own mate. This usually works,
though sometimes what you think is a pair is two of the same sex. If a
pair lays three or more eggs, then you have two hens. Nest:
These birds are noted for building rather flimsy nests. In the wild they
will construct a nest or platform using a few twigs, grasses, roots, and
maybe a few leaves. They will often build their nest on a rocky ledge
or in the branches of trees or shrubs, but sometimes they just use the
old nest of others doves and pigeons or other birds.
For many species you can provide a nest platform or a shallow
box, pan, or basket. For the hole nesting birds provide a nest box. Nesting
materials for the smaller species can be such things as grass hay, coconut
fibers, and moss. For the larger species it can be twigs, pieces of willow,
birch, moss, and straw. Fill half the nest with material and put some
on the platform to encourage nesting. Both parents will help with the
nest building to some degree. Incubate:
The female will generally lay two eggs and both parents will incubate
(though the female does most of it) for 13 to 19 days.There is usually
one of each sex if both eggs hatch The hatchlings are fed by both parents
on a special food called 'crop milk' for the first 4 or 5 days, and then
the crop milk becomes mixed with more solid food. Crop milk is a combination
of partially digested food and a curd like substance from the parents
crop. The young will fledge in about 12 to 20 days. It is important to
provide plenty of water for the parents when they are feeding young. Difficulties:
There can be difficulties in breeding if the pair is very young. There
are some species such as the Bleeding-heart Pigeon, that are difficult
to breed or may abandon their eggs or hatchlings. In this case you can
often successfully foster the eggs or young to other birds that are not
so particular about breeding and are good parents. This can work if the
eggs or hatchlings are within 4 or 5 days of the foster parents own. You
must also be sure they eat a similar diet and that they are similar in
size. Some very good foster parents include the Barbary Dove, Diamond
Dove, Senegal Dove, Spotted Dove and some of the fancy pigeons.
Due to their very high reproductive drive, hybridization
from cross-breeding two species can happen in a community aviary. Be sure
you take precautions to keep the birds you want breeding within their
own species.
Potential Problems:
Doves and pigeons are very hardy birds. Seldom do they get
sick if they are well cared for. Many are very cold hardy but they do
not handle being in an environment that is wet, cool, and drafty. Signs
of Illness:Some of the signs of
illness to be aware of are abnormal behavior such as sitting for longer
than usual or being abnormally quiet, closed eyes, fluffed feathers, head
nodding or head to one side, balance problems, sharply protruding breast
bone, dirty vent, and slimy droppings. Common
Illness: Some of the more common illnessesyour dove or pigeon could contract are pigeon pox, internal parasites
such as threadworm, roundworm, or tapeworm, external parasites such as
mites or ticks, wounds, salmonellosis, and parrot fever also known as
psittacosis. An ailing dove or pigeon should be taken to a avian veterinarian
for diagnosis and treatment.
Availability:
Some doves and pigeons are readily available at a pet store,
but there are so many varieties that many are found through bird shows,
bird clubs or breeders.
